Trying to start your tractor after a long cold winter of inactivity can be a frustrating experience if you didn't perform some simple maintenance tasks last fall. But its not too late to do them now before the grass starts growing:
Wash and thoroughly dry the machine (a power blower can be effective in blowing standing water off the mower deck and in hard-to-access areas. If you have an air-cooled engine, use a wooden dowel or stick to remove any gunk from the cooling fins. If your machine is water cooled, check the condition of the coolant and top off the reservoir if necessary. Use a strong jet of water to clean the radiator's cooling fins.
Drain the fuel tank and replace the gas filter; clean the air filter housing and air filter as well.
Remove the spark plug(s) and inspect them for corrosion and wear. If they are showing some wear, don't try to clean them. It's cheap insurance to simply replace them with new plugs. Be sure to blow away any debris with compressed air before removing the plugs, and torque the new ones to specifications in your owner's manual. A few dabs of anti-seize compound will ensure easy removal next time.
Clean and lubricate the choke and throttle linkages and apply grease to all the fittings, including the mower deck.
If you removed your mower deck this item will be easy: scrape away any grass from underneath the deck and sharpen or replace the blades. Replacement is needed when there are any deep nicks or cuts in the blade's tempered surface. If you didn't remove your deck, now's the time!
Inspect drive belts and tighten loose belts. If your inspection shows any deep cracks or ply separations, replace the belt.
Charge the battery and clean/check the security of the terminals. Apply grease to the posts to retard corrosion.
Last but not least, change the oil in the crankcase of the engine. Change the filter. Check the level of oil in the transaxle and top off if necessary.
Basic engine maintenance is essential. Use the gasoline and oil recommended by the manufacturer. When working on the mower, be sure the blade and all moving parts have stopped. When accessing the underside of the mower for inspection or cleaning, always turn it so that the air-filter side of the mower is up. Otherwise, oil will drain out into the air filter and the engine won't start. Also detach the spark-plug wire so the engine won't start accidentally. Keep spark plugs clean; and have an expert adjust the carburetor. Check air filters regularly, and clean or replace them when dirty.
Be sure to regularly sharpen rotary mower blades, which operate on the principle of a sickle. It's advisable to have an extra blade on hand so a replacement is available when you detect poor cutting. Shredded or brown tips of grass blades is an indication of a dull or damaged mower blade. You can sharpen rotary mower blades with a grinding wheel and file, but be careful not to destroy the balance. To determine which end of the mower blade is out of balance, put a nail in the wall and hang the blade from the hole in the center of the blade. File more off the blade on the heavy end.
Excess vibration is an indication of a damaged blade, mounting, or crankshaft. Frequently tighten the blade and engine mounting bolts, as well as any other nuts, bolts and screws. Check mower wheels, bearings and axles for wear and lubrication. If there are grease fittings, check them every couple of months. Replace loose, wobbly wheels. Be sure to keep the drive mechanism on self-propelled mowers in good working order. Check belts and gears for wear and fit.
After each use, clean the underside of the mower with a strong stream of water. The metal deck can rust out if residue builds up. To reduce fire hazard, keep the engine free of grass, leaves and excessive grease. Check the grass-catcher bag for wear or deterioration, and replace when necessary. At the end of the mowing season, be sure to drain the gas and follow the winterizing instructions in your owner's manual.
To keep your mower in tip-top running condition, have a competent service person thoroughly inspect your mower at least once a year. Make sure the air filter is free of dirt. Replace a dirty paper filter; if it's foam soak it in a bucket of soapy water. When it's dry add 2 drops of oil to the outside and rub it in before replacing.
Remove and clean the sparkplug. If it seems to be too worn or cracked replace it with another manufacturer specific plug.
Check the oil. If it's dirty or has been awhile since the last change, change it now.
Tips:
Your lawn will tell you when your mower needs to be sharpened. Blades of grass will have ragged, torn edges after cutting, and the lawn will pick up a brownish straw cast shortly after mowing.
Reel mowers should be sharpened at a lawn mower repair shop.
Warnings:
Failing to follow manufacturer's maintenance instructions can shorten the life of the mower or cause costly damage.
Gasoline Powered Push Mower Maintenance
You will need:
- 4 cycle engine oil
- a plastic pan to dump the old oil into
- a grindstone bit made just for mowers
- an electric drill
- a vise
- a socket wrench
- a large flathead screw driver
- safety glasses or goggles.
Pull the mower onto a hard flat surface such as a driveway or level patio.
The spark plug
Unscrew the spark plug with the socket wrench.
Always remove the spark plug before doing any work below the deck!
Removing the spark plug will prevent any chance of the mower accidentally starting while you are working on it.
Look at the end of the spark plug that has been inside the engine and inspect it for signs of corrosion. If there is none, you do not need a new spark plug and can put it back into the engine when finished with the maintenance. If the spark plug is corroded, you will need a replacement.
Changing the oil
Unscrew the cap on the oil chamber. It will usually be on the opposite side of the engine from where the gas cap is. (If yours is on the same side as where the gas goes in, you'll have to drain your oil from underneath the deck.) There should be a short dip stick attached to the underside of the cap. Turn the mower over slowly so that the old oil drains out into the plastic pan.
Be sure to dispose of the old oil properly at a landfill or service station. Never dump it on the ground or down a household drain!
While the oil is still draining into the pan, use the socket wrench and take off the nut and washer securing the blade arm of the mower. Put those in a cup where you'll be able to find them again, and then remove the blade arm itself. Clean any caked on grass off of the underside of the deck.
Sharpening the blades
There are 2 blades, one at each end of the blade arm. Sharpen them one at a time. Place the blade arm into the vise of your workbench. Put the grindstone bit into the drill.
Always wear safety glasses or goggles when grinding!
Begin to sharpen the first blade. Shine up the bevel of metal on top of the blade with the bottom of the grindstone. Then flip over the blade arm, securing it in the vise again and run the length of the blade between the grindstone and the white plastic guide attached to the upper end of the bit. Alternate back and forth between the two surfaces, flipping the blade arm as needed, until the blade is sharp. Then do the same thing to the blade on the opposite end of the blade arm.
Put the freshly sharpened blade arm back onto the underside of the deck, securing it with the washer and nut. Gently right the mower.
Cleaning/replacing the air filter
Use a large flathead screw driver and unscrewed the cover of the air filter compartment. Remove the sponge-like air filter. It contains a small amount of engine oil and will be fairly dirty. Wash it in a pan of water with a small amount of soap and degreaser. It is best to dispose of the dirty water at an approved facility so that the engine oil in the filter does not enter the sewer or storm drain systems. You do not need to replace the air filter unless it is disintegrating.
Put about a tablespoon of the new engine oil on the air filter and work it in with your fingers. Put the filter back in its basket and back into its compartment, screwing the cover down tightly, but not too tight.
Replacing the engine oil
Put the new engine oil into the oil chamber. Some engine oil comes in a bottle containing more oil than what will fit into the engine, so be careful and do it slowly. Keep checking the level with the dipstick attached to the cap every couple of teaspoons until the proper level is reached.
Finishing up
Lastly, put the spark plug back in with the socket wrench.
Fill the gas tank with new gas and start the mower.
Lawn Mower Needs Seasonal Maintenance
Before storing your lawn mower for winter, you'll need to do some things so that it starts easily in the spring.
These suggestions are general, so check your owner's manual for specifics:
Empty the gas tank. Drain the gas by loosening the drain plug or by siphoning the gas. Then start the mower and let it run until the remaining gas is consumed and the mower stalls.
While the motor is still warm, drain the oil.
Remove the spark plug and discard. Put about a tablespoon of fresh motor oil into the spark-plug hole and turn the motor over a couple of times to distribute the oil.
Before installing the new spark plug, clean the mower. Make sure to clean under the deck.
Remove the blade and have it sharpened or replaced. If you have it sharpened, store it in a dry place until spring to prevent rusting.
Clean and/or replace the air filter.
Remove rust from painted surfaces, and prime and paint them.
If your mower uses a battery, disconnect it and store it in a cool, dry place for the winter.
Install the new spark plug. Make sure to check the gap.
Install fresh motor oil.
Smart Mower Maintenance
Never run an engine when equipment is indoors. Breathing exhaust fumes can be fatal.
Keep sparks and flames away from batteries - battery gas can explode. Use a flashlight to check the battery fluid level.
Never add fuel when the engine is running or hot. Add fuel outdoors where there is plenty of ventilation.
Follow fueling and pre-mixing instructions carefully for two-cycle engines. Wipe up any fuel spillage quickly to avoid the possibility of a fire.
Shut off the engine before servicing. On electrical start units, disconnect the battery ground cable before working on the electrical system. When working on two-cycle machines, remember to turn the unit switch off and disconnect the spark plug wire.
|
